Do you get a shock when your summer utility bills arrive?  Here are the top 5 ways to control summer cooling costs:

1. Don’t place lamps, TV sets, or other heat producing appliances near your thermostat. The thermostat senses the heat causing the air conditioner to run longer than necessary.

2. Remember that each degree you dial below 78 increases your energy consumption by about 8 percent.

3. Clean and replace the air conditioner filter frequently. This is especially important during the summer when dust and allergens circulate. If the filter becomes clogged, your system will have to work harder to supply the same amount of cool air.

4. Air conditioners with proper shading can be more efficient. Air in a shaded space is cooler than the surrounding air meaning the A/C will have an easier time cooling the air, but keep plants, shrubs, and other landscaping about two to four feet away from your outdoor unit to ensure adequate airflow.

5. When buying new air conditioners, refrigerators or windows, consider energy-efficient versions. They’re usually more expensive but thanks to federal tax credits and competitive prices, the prices are falling, and because they use less energy, you save in the long-run, too.

A&C Service Texas has been servicing air conditioners, heaters, HVAC, and ventilation systems in Mesquite, Dallas, Richardson, The Colony, McKinney, Lewisville, Texas areas since 1952.

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972.270.1115

When shopping for an air conditioner, first consider what system best suits your needs – central air conditioning or room air conditioning. Central air conditioners are located in one part of a building, but they cool the entire building either by blowing cold air through ducts positioned in each room, or by circulating cooled water through pipes to each room where fans blow air across the pipes. Room air conditioners work in the same way, but have a smaller capacity and therefore only cool the immediate area.

Central air conditioners generally provide the greatest comfort but they also cost more than room units. If several rooms need to be cooled, however, a central system is probably the best buy. Central systems generally are not cost-effective as an addition to an existing home unless the existing ductwork can be used.

Room air conditioners are mounted in windows or built into an external wall. Room units are less expensive than central units; however, they only cool the general space in which they are located. There are three types of room units; window models can be installed in most windows; casement window models, used in narrow, vertical windows, usually require the removal of a window panel for installation; and built-in models which are encased in a sleeve installed in the wall.

Size

After selecting the optimum unit type, consider unit size. A bigger unit is not necessarily better, because a unit that is too large will not cool an area uniformly. Also, an oversized unit will cool an area too quickly, causing the air conditioner to frequently turn on and off. This wastes electricity and money. In addition, a unit that is too large will not run long enough to reduce humidity and, instead of feeling comfortable, the air will feel cold and clammy at the normal thermostat setting.

On the other hand, you should avoid purchasing too small a unit. An insufficiently sized unit will run constantly on hot days and still not be able to cool the area adequately.

In sizing an air conditioner for your home, consider the dimensions of the area to be cooled and how the area is used. Based on size alone, an air conditioner generally needs 20 Btu for each square foot of living space. For instance, to air condition a room that is 15 feet wide and 20 feet long, you would calculate: 15 x 20 x 20(Btu) = 6,000. Thus, an air conditioner with a 6,000 Btu capacity would be required.

Calculating Btu requirements becomes more complicated when you consider an area’s use. For instance, if you use passive cooling techniques such as shading, ventilation or vegetation, your Btu estimate can be lowered. Likewise, your Btu needs are increased by factors such as the size of the household, frequent use of heat-producing appliances, or summer humidity levels. An appliance dealer will use these factors to adjust your estimated Btu requirement. For most efficient cooling, purchase a unit, with a capacity within 5% of this estimate.

If you’d prefer to calculate your own capacity needs, you may send away for a “Cooling Load Estimation Form” from:

The Association of Home Appliance, Manufacturers 20 North Wacker Drive, Chicago, Illinois 60606

When choosing between units with similar prices, capacities and features, energy efficiency should be the deciding factor. Even though an energy efficient unit may be higher priced, it may the be best buy. High efficiency appliances cost less to operate and can pay back the extra initial cost many times over during their lifetimes.

All room air conditioners bear bright yellow EnergyGuide labels which provide information on energy efficiency. EnergyGuide labels are mandated by Congress as part of the Energy Policy and Conservation Act of 1975. The label displays an energy efficiency rating (EER) in large black numbers. The higher the rating, the more efficient the appliance. Units with an EER of 9.0 or above are considered very efficient. To help You compare units, a range for competing air room conditioners of the same cooling capacity is printed on the EnergyGuide label below the EER.

The label also provides a cost/use chart to calculate the cost of operating the appliance based on local electricity rates and expected hours of use.

Central air conditioners are rated according to their Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER). Like the EER, the higher the SEER, the more efficient the system. To compare the efficiency of two units with equal cooling capacity, take the difference in SEER’s and divide by the large SEER. For example, if system A has a SEER of 6, and system, B has a SEER of 8, system B will provide the same amount of cooling as system A while consuming 25% less energy (8 – 6 =2; 2/8 = .25).

Finally, compare warranties and maintenance agreements when buying an air conditioner.

Installation

An improperly installed unit, even one with a very high efficiency rating, will waste energy. Whether you install the unit yourself or hire a professional, the following installation tips should be followed. Remember that each unit has specific installation requirements. Therefore, follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. In addition, it is important to install the unit in a shaded spot on the house’s north side or east side because direct sunshine on the unit’s outdoor heat exchanger decreases efficiency. If your system is already exposed to the sun, a shading device such as an awning will protect the unit. Also, do not try to hide the unit’s external part behind shrubbery. The shrubbery reduces the unit’s ability to exhaust air and lowers its efficiency. Plenty of air circulation is mandatory. Room air conditioners must be installed on a flat, even surface so that the inside drainage system and other mechanisms operate efficiently.

The room air conditioner should fit snugly inside the sleeve. Make sure the unit’s front and rear filter plates, top and side flanges and the gasketing on all four sides are waterproofed. Also, provide for effective storm water drainage.

Finally, verify that your home’s electrical system can meet the unit’s power requirements. Room units operate on 115-volt or 230-volt circuits. The standard household receptacle is a connection for a 115-volt branch circuit. Large room units rated at 115 volts may require a dedicated circuit and room units rated at 230 volts may require installation of a special circuit. If in doubt about your wiring, consult an electrician or electric utility. An HVAC contractor should install your central air conditioner.

Maintenance and Operation

A dusty filter reduces air flow. Examine your unit’s air filters once a month and clean or replace filters when necessary. Keeping your filters clean can cut energy consumption 5 to 15%.

Room units should be covered or removed and stored in the winter.

Clogged drain channels prevent a unit from reducing humidity and the resulting excess moisture may discolor walls and carpet. Channels usually can be cleaned by passing a stiff wire through them.

Holes in the seal between the air conditioner and the window frame allow cool air to escape from your home. Moisture can damage this seal so inspect it annually to see that it makes contact with the unit’s metal case.

Coils can become clogged with dust. To clean room air conditioner coils, first unplug the unit. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove dust from the interior heat exchanger; the exterior heat exchanger may be cleaned using water from a garden hose.

You may wish to install a timer. When leaving home, you can set the timer so that the unit turns on a half hour before you return. This should be enough time to cool the room. Before purchasing a timer, you must make sure that it can handle the electrical load; otherwise, the timer could be a fire hazard. For central air conditioners, a programmable thermostat will control the unit.

For a central air conditioning unit, make sure the ducts are properly insulated, especially those that pass through the attic or any other unconditioned areas.

Make sure furniture does not obstruct air conditioning vents. Close off unused rooms and close vents in those rooms.

Weatherstrip all doors and windows.

Close all unnecessary openings such as fireplace dampers, doors and windows.

Set the thermostat to 780 F. Setting the thermostat down to 720 F would increase your cooling costs 12 to 47%, depending on where you live.

Do not set the thermostat lower than the desired temperature when you first turn it on. It will not cool faster; it mill only cool to a lower temperature than necessary and waste energy.

Set the fan speed on high except in very humid weather. When it’s humid, set the speed on low; you will get less cooling but more from the air which will make it feel cooler.

Do not position heat-producing appliances, such as televisions or lamps, near the thermostat. The heat they produce “fools” the thermostat and causes the unit to run longer than necessary.

Keep out sun with louvers or awnings on the outside of your windows, or draw draperies, blinds, or shades indoors. Keep storm windows closed.

Limit heat and humidity producing tasks like cooking and laundering to early morning or late evening.

Use kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans sparingly.

Alternatives

Good conservation habits also help hold down electric bills. For instance, only use your unit when the temperature is above 78 degrees F. Close windows and draw drapes and shades during the day to keep out the heat. At night, open the windows and turn on window or attic fans to draw in the cooler air. In addition, passive cooling techniques such as shading, ventilation, and vegetation can reduce your cooling needs.

A heat pump can be an alternative to the conventional air conditioner. In its cooling mode, an air-to-air heat pump works like an ordinary air conditioner. But unlike an air conditioner, the heat pump can reverse during cold weather, absorbing heat from the outdoor air and transferring it indoors. Though air-to-air is the most common type of heat pump, water-to-air and ground-to-air heat pumps are also available. Water-to-air heat pumps exchange heat with either ground surface or well water.

Ground-to-air heat pumps are most cost effective when included in a new home’s design rather than as an addition to an existing home.

Fans can also help cool your home. While fans cannot replace air conditioners, they can provide supplemental cooling, especially on mild summer days. Substituting fans for air conditioners can save 60% or more in energy.

Evaporative coolers, or “swamp coolers” also can cool your home. An evaporative cooler works on the principle that it takes heat to evaporate water. An evaporative cooler uses the outside air’s heat to evaporate water that is held by pads inside the cooler. The heat is drawn out of the air through this process and ‘the cooled air is blown into your home by the cooler’s fan.

An evaporative cooler costs less than an air conditioner and it also requires only about a quarter of the electricity it would take to run a regular air conditioner. Due to the humidity they add to the air, however, evaporative coolers are only effective in hot, dry regions such as the southwestern United States. An evaporative cooler are also requires a large amount of water. This may be a problem for areas where water has to be conserved. Also, the evaporate cooler requires more maintenance than an air conditioner.

Reprinted in part from Conservation and Renewable Energy Inquiry and Referral Service

A&C Service Texas has been servicing air conditioning and heating systems in Dallas since 1952.  Call us today and we’ll be happy to answer your questions and offer advice.  We will let you know if  professional servicing is necessary.

972.270.1115

A&C Service Texas

A&C Service Texas (972.270.1115) has been servicing air conditioning, heating, and ventilation systems in the Dallas area since 1952.  We are licensed and insured. For more information, visit our website at: http://www.acservicetexas.com.

(1) Air filter(s) MUST be clean. They should be located near the return air duct adjacent to the air handler or in a return air grill(s). Check your air filter every 30 to 90 days to make sure it is clean. Depending of the house, i.e. if you have animals you may need to clean the air filter more often.  (Go clean them now!)

(2) Flip the switch on the thermostat for the fan setting to FAN ON, not AUTO. This will run the indoor fan nonstop. The outside A/C unit will still cycle with a call for cooling from the thermostat. The constant air moving will keep you cooler. You can probably keep the thermostat a degree or two higher then normal and still feel comfortable. You will also maintain a more even temperature between upstairs and downstairs. This will SAVE you MONEY because the outdoor condenser will not come on as much!

(3) Make sure that you wash the outside condenser coil once a year. If it’s dirty, the A/C will run hot and inefficient. A sign of the coil being dirty is the small exposed copper (pipe) (tubing) line, usually 3/8″ O/D connecting the inside unit with the outside unit will be HOT to the touch.

(4) If the small exposed 3/8″ copper pipe connecting the inside unit with the outside unit is hot to the touch there can be several reasons why;

(a)    A/C is low on refrigerant
(b)    The outdoor condenser coil is dirty. Those are the two most common reasons for it to be hot to the touch.

(5) “Warm Rooms” on the lower levels of the house where it is cooler cut back or cut off some vent registers (Diffuser) and make sure that all the ones on the upper floors where it is warmer are open all the way! Also, see paragraphs #2 & #9.

(6) “Doors” if you close the door to a room make sure that there is  about a 3/4″ gap between the bottom of the door and the floor. You may have had carpet put down on the floor and now there is no gap. This is necessary if you have a central return air duct in the hallway. The return air ducts need to pull the warm air from the room.

(7) Never leave the house and turn OFF the A/C. then come back home and turn it on and expect it to cool the house anytime soon. Doing this will not allow the unit to cool down the house for MANY hours. You can set the temperature up five to ten degrees but NOT OFF. This is because of Latent heat buildup in the walls and furniture in the house and will make the A/C work harder to remove the heat, this takes a long time.

(8) Never turn the A/C off then back on in less then five minutes, this will short-cycle the compressor and can trip breakers, blow fuses, or cause permanent damage the compressor. You should have a time-delay install on the A/C to prevent this during power outages! Some setback thermostats have a time-delay built-in. Having a start capacitor and relay is a good idea. This will increase the life expectancy of the compressor by starting faster thus keeping motor temperature down, using less electric to start.

(9) Keep blinds closed, curtains drawn, window shades drawn, a working attic fan would be a good idea, plenty of insulation in the ceiling & walls, air tight storm windows, keep outside doors and openings close, etc.

(10) “Icing of the indoor coil or the large insulated covered copper pipe “There are two main reasons for this, lack of air flow or low on refrigerant. Lack of air flow can be a dirty air filter, dirty indoor evaporator coil, dirty fan blades, damper in duct restricting air flow.

(11) “Water inside around air-handler” see paragraph 10. The condensate line is a drain pipe coming from the indoor evaporator coil to a indoor drain or to the outside. This can become clogged and cause water to backup and can produce about five gallons of water an hour. This is where all the humidity and moisture from the house goes.

(12) You should NEVER need to add refrigerant to a system, if you are adding refrigerant this means that there is a refrigerant leak in the system that SHOULD be fixed! “Why KILL the Ozone layer?”

(13) Checking the cooling with a thermometer. There should be a 15-20 degree temperature drop across the indoor coil at the air handler. Check the temperature drop in the duct close to the coil, if air coming into the coil is 75 degrees then the air leaving the coil should be 60-55 degrees. If it is higher or lower there is probably something wrong. Too high of a drop, IE more then 20 degrees drop, could mean lack of air flow or low on refrigerant. Less than a 15-degree drop could mean too much air flow, dirty outside coil or low on refrigerant.

(14) Never cover the A/C with plastic or an air tight cover; this will cause it to rust.

(15) Do NOT let animals (Cats) (Dogs) etc. Urinate on the outside coil. This will cause it to corrode (rust) and then leak refrigerant.

(16) Keep grass & weeds from blocking air flow on outside A/C.

(17) Do NOT build a deck close to the top of the outside A/C or anything else that could cause the warm discharge air to re-circulate back to the unit.

(18) Fuses, Circuit Breakers or wires should never be hot to the touch; if they are hot you may have a sizing problem or a loose or bad electrical connection.

(19) You can stop here, the rest may not interest you.

When you need to have your equipment repaired/serviced make sure you use a licensed contractor who should be insured and obtain permits from city/county officials when required/necessary.

A&C Service Texas (972.270.1115) has been serving air conditioning, heating, and ventilation systems in the Dallas area since 1952.  We licensed and insured.

Air-Conditioners DO NOT add cool air. What they do is remove warm air and put it outside. R-22 & R-12 ETC.. Refrigerant is a manmade product invented by DuPont and given the trade name FREON.

A&C Service Texas services Dallas, Mesquite, Garland, Sachse, Richardson, The Colony, McKinney, and all of North Dallas.  Call today to discuss your needs and see how we can help you!

972.270.1115

A&C Service Texas